Royal Cremation in Ubud

In the morning we rode our rented scooter up to the central area of UBUD to scope out the situation. three members of the Royal Sukawati family were being cremated and we did not want to miss it. The private ceremony started in the morning at the Royal Palace, but the procession from home to cemetery is public, and a royal cremation draws a huge crowd. First we went to the cemetery to see what that looked like. There was a large open area in front where the cremation would take place later on. A 30 foot stairway/ramp made of bamboo was sitting there unattended. It is for transporting the body from the height of the bier down to the cremation platform. To the right was a large BALE (meeting  house with roof and floor, no walls) which housed the tallest, most elaborate offerings I'd seen. On the left was a raised grassy area with very small stone tombstones. Behind all this was a maze of temples.

At the King's Palace a crowd of 50% foreigners, 50% Balinese was gathering. WE found a cafe with an outdoor area overlooking the street half way between the King's Palace where the procession would begin and the cemetery where it would end. Luckily, they actually let us keep a table from 11:30- 2 pm!! I drank my tea REALLY SLOWLY.
After waiting for over an hour we began to see groups of men dressed in identical sarongs heading this way and that. Later I found out that these groups that carry the bier and replaced every now and then, so I guess they were heading to their posts.
Finally, there was a commotion, but it was the fire truck spraying the street. Everyone who wanted alleviation from the blistering heat jumped into the spray. Also, it was a way to cool down the street for the bier bearers.

 We heard drums and gamelan before we saw the 3 bulls approaching. Each paper mache, elaboratedly, lovingly painted and adorned bull was on a bamboo grid supported by the uniformed men, followed by musicians. One man dressed in white was riding each bull - they looked like children because the bulls were so large.

After that came the family carrying wreaths and large framed photos of the deceased. The women of the deceased were all wearing their hair in the same chignon-like fashion. They all had on maroon temple blouses, a kind of lacy, long sleeve top with long pointed ends in front.

Soon an even greater concatenation erupted. First the tallest 'BADE' (funeral bier) with 9 levels appeared borne by many,many carriers. On the bade was a gamelan player and a family member dressed in white with a udeng on his head (Balinese scarf made into a kind of band or hat for men only- actually, all Balinese men were wearing udengs). After the second bade, the street filled up with people following the procession to the cemetery. At the cemetery, there were many Balinese selling water, snacks, and sarongs because of the tourists. (Traditional cremations did not have people selling to tourists!) 

First the bodies were transferred from the funeral bier via the stairway to the bull platform. The backs of the bulls were opened and the bodies were placed inside in a ceremonial fashion by the male family members. Then female relatives dressed in maroon gathered at the bull platform with offerings on their heads and handed them up to the male relatives who put them into the inside of the bulls with the bodies of the deceased.

Traditionally, people were cremated using wood, but nowadays gas is used. We watched the workers hook up the gas pipes to the gas tanks and the firemen got in position just in case the flame got out of control. Last minute offerings were stuffed in as the pyre of black bulls representing the caste of the deceased were lit. Then in addition to the blistering heat of the day, was added the blistering heat of a pyre. Unfortunately, the air filled with dark smoke and MOST people stepped back (except a few distraught family members and a few foreigners wanting that unique, upclose photo. In the old days only wood, paper and glue were burnt, but now they use styrofoam. The fumes made me sick and I had to leave as they were lighting the bier (more styrofoam).

Balinese tell me that after the ceremonial period (which actually lasts several days), they do not feel grief any more. By the time the procession makes it to the ocean to spread the ashes, they are over it. They know they will follow soon enough (and the family is obliged to spend a fortune saying goodbye). Their religion encourages them to let go and they also believe that the fire speeds the deceased way to reincarnation.

 I'm sure a Balinese would do a ritual purification differently, but I needed to wash off the smoke and ashes, so afterwards I jumped in the pool at the hotel.